19th May
Chesterfield to Edale
41km, 658m elevation and a lovely 20 degrees for much of the day.
Our cheap and cheerful Chesterfield hotel was on the western side and made for an easy getaway toward the Peak District.
A biggish hill to start the day- the first proper hill we’ve “endured” so far, with much grunting and complaining from me 🤣.




Then down the other side and through several gorgeous little villages. Castleton was a little out of our way but Neil suggested we visit (insider knowledge 🙂 ) and it was well worth the detour! Such a pretty spot, charming stone buildings and an English breakfast (well…lunch…) that was utterly superb!
Of course, over a hearty plate of cholesterol, Neil tried to convince me that we should take the “short cut” to our camp-site at Edale, over the Mam Tor Ridge. It would have meant bike pushing, with a 20% gradient but he almost persuaded me.
We set off to find the necessary food supplies before tackling the ridge, but sadly Castleton offered very little in the way of staples and what there was pretty much required the sale of a kidney.
So, back to plan A!! (Phew…) Backtracking just a little for supplies at “Hope” and then the “low” route to Edale. Lucky we still had a few veggies- these were in short supply even in the bigger store.
Another really lovely spot to camp, around £25 which is starting to seem like the norm.
20th May
No riding! 22 deg, sunny and no wind!
Woke up to sun on the tent and a balmy morning for sitting around with a lazy coffee. Pity we had to ration it as we’re almost out of gas for our little burner.
We decided to hike to Mam Tor (apparently all the little hills below are from landslips over time. Still unstable by the seems).









A lovely 11km walk, gave our backsides a needed rest from the bikes. And an afternoon to chill a bit and find some shade to catch up on some work!
Our tent neighbour for today is another cycle tourist, who also rode from Chesterfield. I’m feeling somewhat gratified to hear that he walked his bike up the hill…💪
May 21st
Edale to Todmorden
71.5km, 670m elevation and another lovely sunny day.
Started the day with a big climb back up to Mam Tor…in case we hadn’t seen enough of the views yesterday. Also started with the fourth day of a raging head cold and cough- my preference would have been a day on the couch if I was at home…but we’re on a deadline to get to Otley. Neil gallantly took the heavy panniers up the hill so it was a pretty big workout for him too.

After the first climb, the rest of the day was still a little slow going but very pleasant, taking in the lovely outlooks along the canal trails.



We did have to face some ugly traffic as we negotiated the suburbs of Manchester, but it wasn’t too unmanageable.
Post Manchester we followed the Rochdale Canal path, up an interestingly steep incline, lock after lock as we reached the ” summit” of the canal at a surprising elevation of 600ft above sea level. The engineering construction of there’s waterways prior to industrialisation is really quite something to behold.



A lateish arrival at today’s campsite- a little “wild paddock” at the back of someone’s house. Hot shower and and a lovely camp spot in a historic quarry, all grassed in, cosy and secluded.
Out to the “Golden Lion” for dinner, just down the road. Thai food only- suits me perfectly! Can’t beat a good Green Curry…Neil not quite such a Thai food fan but he managed to find a spicy option with egg on top to hit the spot.
The table opposite gave us (me) an insight into the ever changing dialects of this country as we head further north. Meaning, I couldn’t understand a word…but Neil could translate perfectly.
A little nightcap across the road at a Cider bar…Neil enjoyed discussing the fine points of West Country cider with the the proprietor…I fear he may be inspired to revisit cider production when he gets home. Too bad we don’t have apples any more!!
No fizz cider- apparently this is perfect 🙂
And a tasting of Orange wine- which has nothing to do with oranges except for the colour. White wine made with with red wine techniques. Hasn’t made it to Oz yet as far as we know? But quite tasty!


Tomorrow we’ll get to Otley and catch up with the extended Fuller clan, and re-catchup with Isabel. Might be going camping…Might not! I have no idea, will just go with the flow.
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