Let’s go cycling

Couple of days worth…and they were noteworthy!

Well that seemed like a lot of UP.

A massive day, after a surprisingly good sleep ( karaoke blended in to the background after a while…) we set off toward Luang Prabang…the long way round because apparently the scenery will be worth it 😂 ( the gospel according to Neil…)

After an hour or so of cycling we stopped for a drink at a gorgeous spot on the river bank- the mountain backdrop really has to be seen to be believed, it is simply stunning.

Fueled up with Pepsi and the croissants we picked up on our way out of Vang Vieng, we attacked the first of two big climbs for the day ( well big for me anyhow! ). Somewhere around 1000 metres of up in total yesterday, a bit of a struggle for me by the end of it…but we made it with a few rest stops!

Given that this is the major road between two of the country’s major cities, you’d think it might be half reasonable…nup! Potholes galore ( and when we say potholes… these are truck eating potholes…), soft mud everywhere and the occasional bit that felt like riding through wet concrete…maybe we were?

After commenting that we hadn’t seen any trucks for quite a while (yay!), we then came across a HUGE line of trucks patiently waiting to get through with one badly bogged and others trying (stupidly) to get through in the small and equally boggy gap to the side. Ah well…times like these it’s good to be on a bicycle!

Eventually made it to our rest stop for the night, the “Hot Springs Resort”. More accurate in their winter months, it is definitely not the season right now! But a nice place to spend the night once we found some food…we were a little worried for a while that we’d be hungry and thirsty. The family shop across the road opened about 7pm an made us some fried rice, while their small child kept us amused insisting we hold the kittens he was roughly carting around 😏

It was also a truck stop for the night by the seems- perhaps enforced by the stationary queues of trucks waiting to get past the bogged ones.

Up bright and early for another big climb. We only covered around 25 km today…but most of it was UP!

What a road, we had to ride, the surface was almost unwalkable with ankle deep mud in places, a route to narrow to let trucks past. A crazy day, jostling for road position with Chinese trucks, yet it felt safe, thumbs up from the drivers, friendly toots. We were always given space if available, and the speeds were also slow. We found out from a local along the way…one of the few with some English, that trucks aren’t allowed on the other route to Luang Prabang- so they’re all on this road. In the space of 24 hours we’ve seen several near misses, as well as a couple of trucks left where they fell off the road…we did see a crane a bit later so assumedly that might have been heading to the rescue of one of them.

It was a full on morning so we thought we’d stop in the “metropolis” of Phoukoun for the night. Right up on the plateau, literally in the clouds. Couldn’t see a guesthouse but eventually found what looked like an idyllic spot, high up on the mountainside with absolutely spectacular views when the fog lifted long enough to see!

So it wasn’t a guesthouse, but it did have a platform that we could sleep on and (cold) shower and toilet facilities. Winning so far – peaceful, gorgeous surroundings and Neil happily rode the km back in to town for a few food supplies.

Then…the Karaoke started. How did we manage this!! Seemed to be some sort of youth gathering, pool tables and oh so noisy.

Thankfully it all magically stopped around 7pm and it looked like we were in for the most peaceful of nights, if a little damp!

Somehow it was quite cold last night- around (absolutely freezing) 17 degrees! We needed our jumpers…. I guess that’s what happens when you sleep in a cloud, at 1400m above sea level.

Our peaceful night was interrupted by an intermittent jangling sound which increased in proximity and regularity through the wee hours. Wasn’t hard to figure it out when daylight hit… the local cows ( with their bells) had made camp right next to us and were now happily inspecting our bikes.

Anyhow, a lovely spot to camp, would have been even better if the sun had shone but who’s to complain! Off we go again…