Let’s go cycling

A little wrap-up of our thoughts on a country that was wonderful, yet oh so challenging in all sorts of ways

Nowhere near as scary as we thought they might be! We managed to navigate our way through the megacities of Bangalore, Mumbai and Delhi without any angst and we reckon we’re almost hardened up enough to face traffic in Tasmania. 

Indian traffic: it’s all about squeeze room and trying to make space for yourself. Normally roads are all about parallel lines, Indian traffic is like riding or driving into a triangle.

Horns. Noisy, incessant and at first impression seem to have no real meaning. But we quickly learnt the language of the horn.  Most times it’s a sensible signal…eg “I’m about to cut you off because you’re there and I’m turning left”

Or, “just letting you know I’m behind you”

Or “I’m going the opposite direction as everyone else and I’m in your lane…get out of my way”

But still… there are the crowded gridlocked streets where horns still just serve to display impatience at the standstill…

Most noticeably there was no anger or road rage- just good humoured “letting you know I’m here” type noise. We could learn a thing or two in Oz…

Food. 

Wow.  We loved so many aspects of Indian food and the variation between regions and states was significant. 

Rich and spicy curries everywhere.

Dosas. Thali. 

No doubt Neil will be trying a few recreations when we get home!

Egg puffs in Kerala. Vadas (deep fried savoury donuts) in Tamil Nadu

Vada Pavs and Misal Pavs in Maharashtra…they love their bread rolls!

Beer in Goa 🤣.  Oh yeah and lots of fish! Goan fish curry is pretty good.

Dhal in Rajastan…cos our tummies just couldn’t face any more curries by then.

The levels of food hygiene were somewhat low from the outset,  and seemed to deteriorate the further north we ventured- but surprisingly we lasted a good month in India before succumbing to the inevitable…

Colours everywhere! In every Indian state the saree rocks and they are beautiful and bright.  In Southern India most of the men also wore a (plain) version,  a sarong I guess, tucked up over the knees most if the time.  As we ventured further north, and especially in the big cities, men were dressed more western style.  By the time we reached Delhi there was not a male sarong in sight, even amongst the poorest.

Small children literally living on the street under a highway overpass, families with their meagre belongings camped in what we’d consider a rubbish tip at home, and frail elderly men lying on the side of the busy roads.  Able bodied blokes working their rickshaw carts during the day and sleeping on the roadside at night.  Maimed and disfigured (intentionally??) souls begging for a handout.

These aspects of India were confronting and distressing. How very grateful we are to have been born into a land of privilege where we want for nothing.

A troubling and consistent feature is the rubbish, everywhere, huge amounts even in the smallest of towns. Dumping grounds were the roadsides, rivers and lakes.

Many rural towns were shockingly poor, with only wells for water. The young and able were chasing brighter futures in the big cities. Previously grand houses had been stripped of doors windows etc and left to decay.

Many of our nights were spent in these small towns and these in particular were challenging for us on bicycles, with few options for food and lodging.

India is a land of contrast for sure.  From beautiful lush landscapes in Kerala to barren flat stretches in the north.

From makeshift tent homes to opulent mansions.

Delhi seemed to encapsulate all of the contrasts and contradictions that we saw throughout India.

Filth, smells that would turn the strongest stomach, and utter wretchedness.

Overcrowded market streets and living rough. 

Ride a few streets away and the same megacity features tree lined roads with plenty of space. Cafes and restaurants that satisfy the ” western” need for a perception of cleanliness and a bit of comfort.

Living costs…from the equivalent of $1AU for a full meal at a roadside stall in a country village, to the best part of $50 on one of those tree lined streets in the high class city areas.

Soooo many people.  We couldn’t stop anywhere without some sort of human interaction…not even a lone shady tree.

We didn’t see another cycle tourer in our entire journey and it was clear that we were a  complete novelty to most of the locals we encountered. Outside of the major cities westerners were obviously a very rare sight.

Through most states we were greeted with broad inquisitive smiles from the children, and outright stares from the grown ups. Those with the means…eg moto riders, often rode alongside for a chat or a request for a selfie.

The Indian way of life was fascinating to observe, coming from a culture where we are always busy, busy, busy. There’s never a hurry in India (except perhaps where there’s a gap left between traffic!!)

Lots of sitting around…waiting.

The goat grazier and his life of content  simplicity, shepherding his animals along the highway verges.

The duck farmer…a sight to behold…herding his flock, maybe 50 birds, through the chaotic  traffic of an Indian country town with nothing more than a bamboo pole with a rag tied on the end.

The shopkeeper. Waiting, idly waiting, in his tiny store for his couple of daily customers. 

The overstaffed restaurants…where maybe half a dozen waiters seem to have nothing to do but stand and watch us eat…instead of perhaps giving a bit of attention to the dirty surroundings 😦

But other eateries…where the staff went above and beyond when they didn’t need to.

Did we love it? Yes!  But we admit we were ready to leave.  Heat and declining appetites took their toll and it was time to rethink our priorities.

Three months away from home, 3627km through Sri Lanka and India. 60 days of cycling…and over 30,000m of elevation.  And for the most part, we had an absolute ball!

Will we be back? Well maybe…we’d both love to see the Himalayas. And we barely touched on the northern part of India.

After exiting India, we’ve had a week of R&R in Thailand, and today we head home to Tas.  Very much looking forward to seeing our family and friends- it’s been a while!  And then hopefully we’ll be ready to plan the next one 🙂